Nathdwara yathra - 6

Chithorgarh

               Radhekrishna! We had asked the same driver who took us to Mount Abu to take us to Chithorgarh too. He first took us to Sanwalia ji temple on the way to Chithorgadh. Sanwalia ji means the 'dark Lord'. The temple is situated at the town of Mandaphia about 40 kms from Chitorgarh. The deity of the Lord Krishna here is considered second only to Srinathji of Nathdwara.

The temple is very big in the middle of a very vast compound. The temple is being renovated now. Construction work is going on around. When we reached the temple the curtain was drawn. But I wanted to wait and have the darsan so we waited for about half an hour. It was arathi time and we could attend the arathi. The 'dark Lord' is really fantastic. His lotus eyes attract us. He has a bewitching smile too. His curly hair adds to His beauty. Wow! Blessed indeed is His darsan. From one of the security people I came to know that some devotee had a dream that 3 of the Lord's deities are under the ground somewhere. So the deities were undug and one consecrated here and the other two at two other places. Anyway we felt very happy having seen the cute Krishna.

        It was already 11 am when the arathi was over. So we hurried to our next destination - Chithorgarh.  Chithorgarh is a district by itself and was the main headquarters of the rajput kings. The entire city is surrounded by huge fort.

This place is full of forts and temples. The first place we visited was Meera bai's temple.

 The one place which I was eagerly waiting to see! I was feeling so excited nearing it. The guide showed us two adjacent temples in a a compound. One is a temple for Lord Vishnu which was built by the Rajasthan kings. Near to it stood a small but beautiful temple of Krishna built by the Rana as requested by Meerabai. 

        MiraBai was born in 1504 AD at Chaukari village in Merta District of Rajasthan. Her father, Ratan Singh, was the second son of Rao Duda ji. According to the prevailing story, Meeramatha was married to Bhojraj also called as Rana Kumbha of Chithorgarh at the age of 8. The Rana ordered this temple of Krishna to be built for her. But he didnt live to see it. According to the guide Meera became a widow within a few months of her marriage. Then she lead a secluded life with her Krishna. Since as a child she thought she was married to Krishna she never considered herself to be a widow. Generally Rajput ladies are prohibited from moving out of their palaces. She being a widow was expected to be confined to the room only. But Meera full of devotion for her Lord spent most of her time in the temple itself singing and dancing. This was not liked by her brother in law who kept tormenting her. Meera Bai’s sister-in-law Udabai formed a conspiracy and began to defame the innocent Meera. Once they tried to kill her with a poisonous snake. But her Lord kept saving her from every disaster. Finally she got fed up and left to her home. It was from there that she went to Brindavan and to Dwaraka to get merged in the Lord.

               I was hearing the story attentively. Oh what a great devotee she was! I found his story more credible. She was only a little girl when her husband died. She never had the opportunity to colour her mind with the worldly thoughts. Her whole attention was pointed to her 'lover' Krishna! As there was nobody to support this little girl she must have suffered a lot under her in laws. But brave as she was she had overcome all hurdles and reached her detination finally! Great! Great! I humbly bow at her feet to bless us also her bhakthi bhavam!   

        There is also another version in which Meera didnt become a widow. But the Rana tortured her ill adivsed by his brother and sister. When the torture and scandals continued, Meera sent a letter to Goswami Tulsidas and asked for his advice. Tulsidasji sent a reply: "Abandon those who cannot understand you. The turning point in Meerabai’s life occurred when once Akbar and his court musician Tansen came in disguise to Chittor to hear Meera’s devotional and inspiring songs. Both entered the temple and listened to Meera’s soul - stirring songs to their heart’s content. Before he departed, he touched the holy feet of Meera and placed a necklace of priceless gems in front of the idol as a present. Somehow the news reached the Kumbha Rana that Akbar had entered the sacred temple in disguise, touched the feet of Meerabai and even presented her a necklace. The Rana became furious. He told Meerabai, "Drown yourself in the river and never show your face to the world in future. You have brought great disgrace on my family".

      When Meera tried to drown herself in the river her lover Giridhari held her from behind and stopped her. He whispered in her ears - My dear Meera, your life with your mortal relatives is over now. You are absolutely free. Be cheerful. You are and have always been mine."

 Meera went to Brindavan to her Guru saint Raidas and spent her life doing oonchavrithi. So many princesses and queens have come and gone. So many princesses, and queens have appeared on the stage of this world and vanished. How is it that the queen of Chittor alone is still remembered? Is this on account of her beauty? Is this on account of her poetic skill? No. It is on account of her renunciation, single-minded devotion to Lord Krishna and the self-realization.

             The guide first took us to the Vishnu temple. This temple is slightly bigger than Meera's Krishna temple. There is no dearth of beautiful carvings all around. Lord Vishnu along with His consort Lakshmi is the main deity here. The pujari gave us theertha and tulsi leaves. We then moved towards Meera matha's temple. My heart was pounding. After praying to Meera matha I entered the temple. 

                   

A soft music of Meera matha's bhajan could be heard from inside. They keep playing the bhajans continuously. Inside is a deity of Lord Sri Krishna playing the flute. There is a deity of Meera matha too sitting facing Him holding a tambur in her hand. The scene accompanied by the sweet bhajan gave shivers in me. I could very much feel Meera matha's presence there! I prostrated there and was very happy. I felt the purpose of my life fulfilled at that moment. What more do I need! I was actually standing in the very same temple where the great devotee had sung so many songs. Opposite to the mandir is a mandap where we can see the 'charana kamal ' of Meera matha's guru Raidas ji!

 

  We now moved on towards a tall stupa called Vijayasthambham. We can enter inside and move up through the winding stair case. It was very dark inside. We didnt climb up high but came out quickly. Near the Vijayasthambha is a place where queen Padmini committed jauhar - self immolation with fire. The muslim ruler Alaudin Khilji captured Chithorgarh in 1303 AD. The then queen Padmini preferred jauhar to abduction and dishonour by the Muslims. She along with other ladies jumped in to a big fire and ended their lives. What a moral strength they had in those days! See you in the next issue. Till then Radhekrishna! Radhekrishna!

Nathdwara yathra - 5

Mount Abu

       Radhekrishna! After booking for the Srinathji temple trip we had booked for a car to take us to Mount Abu the next day. So next day morning we got ready and got in to the car. Mount Abu is a resort located at an elevation of 4000 ft in Rajasthan.In puranas this place is referred to as arbudaranya. A number of temples are situated here like Arbuda devi temple carved out of solid rock. You have to climb about 800 steps to reach the temple. Another one is a Dattatreya temple built on the Guru Shikhar peak.

Climbing up the hill was a real adventure for us. On the top peak we can see Dattatreya's charana mandir. The place has nice ambiance. Climbing down we were taken to Achaleswar Jain mandir. Here also you will have to climb lots of steps to reach the mandir. But it is worth seeing. The architectural beauty of Rajasthan is really good. 

The temple is built in marble. They have kept it very clean and neat. But cameras are strictly prohibited so we couldn't take the photos of the wonderful sculpture there. In this temple they have built rooms for pilgrims who want to stay there and do sadhana for free. Daily food is given to pilgrims who come there. Well we didnt wait till lunch time since we had to see many other locations also.

      Our next destination was the very famous Dilwara Jain temple complex. My God! This is a marvel in marble so to say. Actually we need at least one full day to see around it completely. We could only do a hurried circumbulation. Long marble corridors with a number of temples for various thirthankaras. Each temple would be different. The corridor is full of innumerable pillars each different from the other. The ceiling is also covered with various floral and other designs carved in marble. We stared at the ceiling till our necks ached. Walking around our legs started aching. The temple is very vast and exemplary. By the time we finished seeing around the temple complex we were tired. Next we moved on to Nakki lake beside which we had lunch at a hotel. 

This is a place of visitor's attraction. There is a toad shaped rock in this place. As we had to return by 7 pm we started back without seeing the rest of the temples. It is advisable to stay in Mount Abu for a day to complete the temple visits. Next issue we will be back with our Chithorghadh trip. Radhekrishna! Radhekrishna!

Nathdwara Yathra - 4

Jai Srinathji!

      Radhekrishna! The much awaited tour had come at last!  The main destination of this trip was Nathdwara. Next day by 8 am we reached the travels's office. The bus came late after some confusion regarding the starting point.We kept praying to the Lord frantically. At last the bus started forward. The first destination in the trip was Purana Srinathji Mandir. They say that the deity was originally consecrated here and then it was moved to the present location later on. 

It is an old temple with a photo of the Srinathji deity inside. A Pandit lives in the premises with his family. They are doing the daily seva to the deity. We sat there till the arathi time and took part in it. After that we moved forward to Rana Prathap Singh Smarak at a place called Haldighat. We can see sculptures depicting the historical incidents of Rana Prathap Sing's life with light and sound show.
    Rana Prathap Singh fought against the Mugal rulers vehemently. In the battle he faced Man Singh the Mugal commander. In the ensuing fight Prathap Singh's faithful horse Chetak was wounded fatally on one of his legs. The enemies were surrounding him. At that time one of his Jhala Sardar wore Prathap Singh's Royal insignia and made himself the target of the Mugal Army. Thus the Rana left the battle field along with some of his loyal followers. Chetak who was fatally wounded carried him as far2 miles where he encountered a stream on his path. While trying to jump over it he collapsed. Rana Prathap Singh built a monument for his faithful horse in this place. We saw the monument also and proceeded further to Eklingji mandir. 

       This temple is situated 22 kms from Udaipur. It is a very old temple of Lord Siva the main deity of Mewar dainasty. The magnificent architecture of this temple is really fantastic. All over Rajasthan we cant but admire the architectural fraternity of the people. The main idol is about 50 feet high depicting 4 faces of the Lord facing four directions. It is a beautiful temple which must be visited. 

      Srinathji is principal deity of the Vaishnava cult called Pushti marg. The saint Vallabhacharya established this form of worshiping the Lord in the Vatsalya bhava. It is said that the deity's arm and face emerged out of the Govardhan hills. The deity was worshiped in a temple on Govardhan itself. Later on it was moved from there to protect it from the hands of the Mugal emperor Aurengazeb to the present location in Rajasthan. It was in 1672 that the deity was consecrated at the present temple. The deity is that of Lord Krishna as a little boy with Hi left hand raised holding the Govardhan mountain. 

       We reached Nathdwara by 3 pm. The bus stopped at a bus bay on the outskirts of the town. From there we had to take an autorikshaw to the temple. The temple was closed at that time. We joined the queue standing in front of the temple. Ladies and gents have separate queues. By 4-30 the temple doors were opened and we were let inside through a different path from the gents. Inside another hall we were again made to stand. But we could see the first batch of visitors getting inside. Somebody said they were those who had booked for puja sevas. After letting them out the gents were let in.      
       Some of the ladies began to feel jealous of them. Some of them were  getting restless. One lady standing behind me (who seems to be new to this place) commented that the gopas are Krishna's favourites so he had let them in first. Immediately another one who was a regular visitor replied that first he will see off the gopas so that he can have more time with gopis. This caused a ripple of laughter among us and some of us fully supported her. 
      While all this was going on I had started worrying whether there would be enough time left for me to have the coveted darsan. Those who were regulars were saying that the temple closes every 30 mts. It was already nearing 4-30 and we were to reach the bus before 5 pm. I was worried whether I would be able to have my darsan before that. I enquired with a lady who supported the gopis earlier whether everybody would be allowed inside before 5 pm. The lady smiled and told me not to worry at all that the Lord never lets anybody go back disappointed. Whoever comes there to have His darsan is never disappointed she said. Though that quietened me for some time, as the time was dragging on I again began to feel desperate. 
      I cried from my heart of hearts to the Lord. "Oh Lord ! Please dont let me down. If the time is out then I cant wait for the next darsan. I will have to go back. I dont know whether I would be able to make a visit this far again. So please dont disappoint me." Time was going on still no sign of calling us in. Now tears slowly started welling in my eyes. At last we were let inside and I rushed like a mad woman holding on to the duppattah of the lady who was standing behind me. I knew she was a regular and she might know the techniques of getting good darsan. 
       As I stood in the crowd trying to get a glimpse of the coveted form my heart leaped with joy. The crowd was thronging inside and I was about 5 or 6 rows back. The lady with whom I came was standing beside me. She whispered in my years "have u seen your Takur? Didn't I tell you that you will have your darsan?" I smiled at her. Then she pushed me forward saying 'go!go! go forward near  and look at Him' I managed to inch my way forward and set my eyes on the beautiful form. I saw the Lord as a fascinating youth with a captivating smile. My eyes were getting wet at the divine darsan. The crowd was crushing me from all sides. I was slowly pushed out and stepped away from the crowd. The lady came near me and said 'Why don't you go inside again and have the darsan?' I hesitated as we are supposed enter from the right side and move out through the left side. How can go back to the right side entrance now? But she forcibly pushed me inside the door in front of the security guard who was totally unaware of what was happening. I again found myself standing in front of Srinathji. What a grace! This time I saw His dress, jewels etc. 
     Again I was slowly inched out of the pushing crowd. I was virtually crying. Then lady was still waiting outside for me. She asked me to have darsan of Bal Gopal deity which is on the left side of Srinaji sanctum. She also told me to visit Meerabai mandir and a Panduranga mandir before she left. I moved along the crowd and saw the Bal Gopal deity too. I came out and met my husband and we visited Meerabai mandir and also Panduranga mandir. By that time it was 5 pm. We rushed out of the temple and caught an auto to take us back to the bus. Almost all had returned except for a few people. We waited till everybody came back and then proceeded back to Udaipur.
Radhekrishna! Radhekrishna!

Nathdwara Yathra - 3

      Radhekrishna! We reached Udhaipur by 6 a.m. We took an auto and reached our hotel. We had booked at the hotel online and so checked in to our room. We got ready quickly and went for a tour of Udhaipur by auto. Udhaipur is a beautiful city of lakes and palaces. Many of the palaces have been converted in to luxury hotels. We started with Pichola lake. Boat rides are conducted around the lake.It is a vast lake right in the middle of which is a palace turned hotel called Lake Palace Hotel run by the Taj group. The Lake Palace covers the entire island in the Pichola lake. Boat rides are conducted around the lake. We are taken around the Lake Palace Hotel. On the eastern shores are situated a series of massive palaces turned luxury hotels. We enjoyed the boat ride very much. 

       We were taken to Karna devi temple situated on a hill top next. Cable car services are provided to reach the top of the hill. On top is a small temple of Karna devi. The view from there is breath taking. Children will definitely enjoy the cable car ride. 

 We proceeded our tour and passed by City Palace which is partly occupied by the royal family and the rest is open for visitors. It is a big palace of architectural beauty. We roamed about palace for an hour and came out. 

  Our next destination was Jagdish Temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu. It is an old beautiful temple. It was arati time when we went so attended that there. 

 Just outside the temple there are number of shops on both sides of the road selling various handicrafts items, dresses etc. It is a shopper's delight to walk around the place.

 From there we were taken to Aravali Vatika a nice garden on the small hillock. We hurriedly finished seeing around the garden and proceeded to our next destination Prathap Smarak which is dedicated to the memory of Rana Prathap Singh. It was here that the Rana's military force were given training. The old dilapidated building is still there. There is a light and sound show in the evening.

 

       From there we proceeded to Fateh sagar lake. It is a beautiful lake and is a source of water supply in Udhaipur. We went for a boat ride around the lake and visited Nehru Park which is situated in the midst of the lake. Our next destination was a park of water fountains called Saheliyon ki Bari. Sahelion Ki Bari' was laid for a group of forty-eight young women attendants who accompanied a princess to Udaipur as part of her dowry. The princess was very fond of bathing rains. So the Rana made this garden with lots of fountains. The gardens set below the embankment of the Fateh Sagar Lake have beautiful lotus pools, marble pavilions and elephant- shaped fountains. These fountains are fed by the water of the lake gushing through ducts made for the purpose. Each water channel has its distinct sound and the mingling of these sounds complement the ambience of the place

  On our way back we passed Sukhadiya Circle and reached our hotel. On the whole it was a nice outing. We enjoyed seeing around Udhaipur very much. We had booked our tickets in a conducted tour for Nathdwara darsan next day. We were so excited and were very much looking forward to the much awaited trip of Nathdwara to see our little Srinathji! Will be back in the next issue about that trip. Radhekrishna! Radhekrishna!